My search for the perfect Speedmaster continues. It’s a journey fraught with excitement, disappointment, and a healthy dose of obsessive detail-checking. My latest foray into the world of pre-owned chronographs on Chrono24 ended, as many have before, with a frustrating mismatch between the advertised movement serial number and reality. This near-miss, however, only intensified my focus on the specific model that continues to elude me: the Omega Speedmaster Professional 3590.50. This review will delve into the nuances of this iconic timepiece, exploring its place in the Speedmaster lineage, its desirable features, and the pitfalls to avoid when hunting for a pre-owned example.
Omega Speedmaster 3590.50: The Ultimate Neo-Vintage
The Omega Speedmaster Professional 3590.50 occupies a unique space in the Speedmaster universe. Often referred to as a "neo-vintage" watch, it bridges the gap between the classic, hand-wound Speedmasters of the past and the more modern, technologically advanced models. Produced from approximately 1996 to 2018, the 3590.50 boasts a compelling blend of heritage and contemporary refinement. This model represents the pinnacle of the evolution of the iconic Speedmaster Professional before the introduction of the sapphire crystal and updated movements of the subsequent generation. Understanding this historical context is crucial to appreciating its enduring appeal.
This particular reference stands out for its distinct features. The most immediately noticeable is its case, crafted from stainless steel with a brushed finish on the sides and a highly polished bezel. This combination provides a sophisticated and robust aesthetic that perfectly embodies the tool watch heritage of the Speedmaster. The case is generously sized at 42mm, making it comfortable on most wrists without feeling overly bulky. The iconic tachymeter bezel, a hallmark of the Speedmaster, is made of aluminum, adding to the watch's vintage charm. The black dial, with its distinctive applied indices and luminous hands, offers excellent legibility, even in low-light conditions. The sub-dials are perfectly balanced, creating a harmonious and visually pleasing layout.
Underneath the robust exterior lies the calibre 1861, a manual-wind chronograph movement. This movement is a direct descendant of the legendary calibre 861, which powered the Speedmasters worn on the moon. While not as technologically advanced as some of Omega's later movements, the calibre 1861 offers a charming simplicity and a satisfying mechanical experience. The rhythmic ticking and the smooth operation of the chronograph pushers are a testament to Omega's horological heritage. The manual winding mechanism requires daily attention, but for many enthusiasts, this is part of the charm, a ritualistic connection to the watch's mechanical heart.
Omega Speedmaster Professional 3590.50.00: A Closer Look at the Reference Number
The reference number 3590.50.00 is often used interchangeably with 3590.50. The addition of ".00" at the end is simply a variation in Omega's internal numbering system and doesn't denote any significant differences in the watch itself. Both references represent the same iconic Speedmaster Professional with the calibre 1861 movement, the brushed/polished steel case, and the black dial. Therefore, when searching for a pre-owned example, don't be dissuaded by the presence or absence of the ".00" suffix.
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